Cappadocia

The sign above the sink in the public washroom said it plainly:
Do we piss in your ashtray ?
Please do not throw cigarette bullets in the sink !
I guess by ‘bullets’ they meant ‘butts'; at least I hope they did. One of the charms of Turkey, as I saw it, was that war had not yet been declared on smokers. They were everywhere, and I suppose the only negative coming out of that situation was that they occasionally left their cigarette butts in bathroom sinks. I didn’t mind breathing in the carcinogenic fog at all; it reminded me of my childhood in Quebec growing up with my parents. To tell you the truth however, my parents’ smoking habits probably wreaked more havoc on me than it did on any of my siblings. I was the runt of the litter and the only one to lose his hair. My older brother, who usually never addressed me unless he was insulting me, once pointed out that quite possibly I could have been six feet tall with a full head of hair if I hadn’t inhaled so much of the vile weed.

The unique landscape of Cappadocia was exactly as the tourist brochures pictured it, except that there were Korean tourists everywhere. A volcanic area sometime in the distant past that if I had ever paid attention in geography class I could probably put a number on, Cappadocia was dominated by a landscape now known as ‘fairy chimneys’. But the intrigue of the area far surpassed some unique geographical formations. Occupied by some group known as the Hittites between 1800 and 1200 B.C. it had then become the preserve of the Persians and then the Greeks under Alexander the Great. With much of these time periods dominated by precarious political positions the locals had learned how to carve underground cities in the, well, the underground. These tunnels had become particularly developed during the early years of Christianity when the early believers had to live with more than just the threatening jeers, jokes and condescension of the more numerous non-believers, especially when the heathens had powerful armies at their disposal. Religion must have been taken very seriously in those days. I marvelled at how any one would ride way out into the desert, searching through mountainous caverns, just because you happened to disagree with their idea of the hereafter.

Tunnels were carved out in the rock and included not only living quarters but stables, water cisterns and wine cellars as well. As well as passing the time by drinking wine they had also managed to paint the walls with magnificent frescoes. It was like an underground network of Sistine Chapels. There had probably been many a conversation over the breakfast wine where someone would be asked, “And what are you planning to do today, Matthias?”
“Same thing I do every day,” would come the reply, “paint frescoes.”

During the course of my wandering and musing over the majesties of the past I had become separated from both wife and daughter. The early Christians might have been content to paint masterpieces for nothing but their descendants were more practical-minded. The charge for entering an ancient church carved into the upper levels was an extra 10 Turkish lira. Brenda, without my knowledge had purchased three of these tickets and then had sold one to an Asian guy from New York when I was slow to appear.
“Where’s your husband?” he had asked, when told that she had the extra ticket because of my disappearance. Brenda was not overly-concerned.
“He probably lay down in one of those tombs,” she replied. “By now he’s probably one of those skeletons you can see laid out all over the place.”

I was waiting for said wife and daughter at the exit when they ambled out, probably taking their time just to piss me off.
“Tomorrow I’m getting up at 4:30 a.m in order to take one of those hot air balloon rides the different hotels are offering,’ Brenda informed me upon exiting. “Do you want to come?”
It was tempting, but the hotel breakfasts didn’t serve that early, and they might be over by the time the balloon jaunt had finished. So far I hadn’t missed one of those excellent buffet feasts, no matter what hotel we were in. I paused and carefully considered the matter.
“Take lots of pictures,” I instructed.

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Stuck in Reverse

A good business always makes the customer feel like the most important person on Earth… until they get your money, of course. There was the representative from the Turkish car company standing at those airport partitions as we left the baggage pickup area with his little sign marked ‘Perras Family.’ Five pedestrian days in Istanbul were in the rear-view mirror and the next sixteen would be spent touring Turkey in a horseless carriage.
Before we picked up our stalwart steed the inevitable paperwork had to be completed. My passport and driver’s license were spread out on the table as Brenda checked over the calculations of all forthcoming fees. I love to make jokes and remind her as to how true she is to the ah, stereotypical Scottish frugality. My best take on the subject is when we walk into any vacant chamber and I’m able to trot out the old Rodney Dangerfield line, “It’s as empty in here as a Scottish pay toilet.” But I’m always forced to admit that her attention to detail is always saving us a few dollars, even if it is shaving a few years off my life.
Reminisces of poor dead Rodney were brought to a discreet halt when a glance at my driver’s license startled me into the realization that I had brought along the one that had expired on April 28, 2014. I remembered all my cards being spread out on the dining room table: health, debit, driver’s license, etc. and I must have handled this routine chore in my usual slapdash, pellmell, offhand manner. Our rental agent was now reaching for my driver’s license as he continued with the paperwork. I gulped.
He finished with his recording of the relevant information and handed me back my expired card without a word. This was my kind of country. I came to realize how this inattention to spurious details and bureaucratic regulations would extend to the highways and byways as well. Unsignalled lane changes were the norm, blinkers were an annoyance not to be bothered with and signs posting speed limits were as rare as American tourists in Iraq. Three passengers on a scooter and a crowd of kids in the back of a pickup truck were normal. As an aging, grumpy libertarian living in overly-regulated Ottawa, Ontario I had found my Nirvana. I would be driving for the next sixteen days without a valid driver’s license. But such inattention to detail also meant that the rental car’s gas gage needle was on empty. We asked directions to the nearest gas station, loaded up our bags and were on our way before there was any re-examination of driver’s licenses.
Or before we had really understood the directions, as it turned out. After going twice the distance we thought had been indicated we decided to cut our losses, stop and turn around. Which involved putting the vehicle into reverse.
Your correspondent has a few weaknesses to which I will reluctantly admit, even if it’s never to my wife. One of my areas of pride, however is my driving. I’ve been driving a tractor since I was seven years old on my uncle’s farm; I’ve driven all over North America and Europe. I’ve driven gear shifts for forty two years: four on the floor, three in the tree (which I haven’t seen much since I drove a landscaping truck in the seventies)… I love ‘em all.
But I couldn’t find reverse. Neither could Brenda, to my extreme relief. I tried pulling and tugging the gearshift in every direction known to man, while using every curse word I had ever heard. None of them worked. Brenda, to her credit, was ready to find a more practical solution. “I’ll go back to the rental agency and ask them where it is,” was her sensible suggestion. Admitting defeat, I had to agree. It was at least a kilometre back.
She hadn’t been gone five minutes when a friendly Turk who must have been enjoying the shenanigans approached the car and in seconds had located the small ring that had to be pulled up in order to move into reverse. Case solved, and as I happily shifted into reverse I told Rachelle to watch out for her mother, while I paid attention to overloaded scooters and non-signalling Turks.
Both of the latter were everywhere, but of Brenda there was no sign. She had disappeared into the ether just as mysteriously as a spirit on that Jennifer Love-Hewitt series ‘The Ghost Whisperer.’ I thought back to our disagreement about the scissors on the day’s flight and wondered, did I suddenly gain mystical powers ?
It was on our third circuit that Rachelle and I finally found Brenda standing in the middle of a crowd of sympathetic Turks, anxiously awaiting our appearance. It wasn’t the first time, nor would it be the last, when we were overwhelmed by the Turkish helpful hospitality . A man and his teenaged daughter jumped into the car to show the dimwitted Canadians the exact location of that cursed gas station and after the fill-up, invited us to their home for supper.
Twilight was settling in, however, and so we settled on just receiving directions to Goeme, the beginning of the Cappadoccia cave country. As Robert Frost would put it if he was travelling with his wife and daughter, “We had miles to go before we slept…”
The desert-like countryside was beautiful as we drove through the twilight. Hopefully we wouldn’t be wandering through it for the next forty years.

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Take-Off Troubles

We had to fly from Istanbul to some place called Goeme in order to pick up our rental car. That means going through airport security, of course. Your intrepid traveller has a bad track record when it comes to authority in general, and customs security in particular.

Contrary to popular belief I did have hair at one time. It was long and curly and its sometimes unkempt appearance blended well with the painters’ pants and overalls that I favoured in the mid- 1970s. As Grampa Simpson would say, “It was the style at the time.”
It was also my style at the time to do a lot of cross-border travel. Many of my Bishop’s University friends came from New York and New England, leading to some summertime visits when I was able to wangle a long weekend off from my landscaping jobs. I was an Arts student and on the forms that I inevitably had to fill out in my early twenties I described myself as “an itinerant labourer and down-at- the-heels philosopher.” That line always made me chuckle, but it didn’t seem to get the same reaction from some of the Customs officers of my acquaintance. I’ve been hauled off more than a few Greyhound and Voyageur buses when stopped at the U.S. border, who even in those days employed many security zealots who would have fit in very comfortably at East Berlin’s Checkpoint Charlie. After going through my bag and even my wallet, and realizing that the most subversive activity that I was guilty of was watching ‘Saturday Night Live’ I would be ‘released’, and allowed back on the bus. As I was walked down the aisle I would be eyed warily by the less suspicious travellers, who must have imagined that at the very least they were travelling with a former member of the Chicago 7. I never had the same problem after I acquired the burden of a wife and family. Growing older is not without its advantages.

Plus ca change plus c’est la meme chose. Whether it be buses or airplanes I am still an absent-minded disaster waiting to happen. This time I had forgotten that I had packed a pair of scissors in my carry-on bag. Once again I was staring into the unblinking eyes of yet another security Nazi.
Busted.
The airport official held out his hand as I guiltily handed over my weapon of mass destruction. Good thing I don’t have to use shampoo very often anymore. All the other passengers seemed to take it in stride as the terrorist was tamed and allowed to rejoin the line. With one exception.
Did I also mention that my track record for peaceful co-existence with my better half can be as short-lived and tumultuous as my relationship with Customs officials ? There’s not much we enjoy more than keeping ourselves mentally sharp with a round or two of what we consider as quick-witted repartee. For the next few minutes Brenda held a clear advantage as she tore strips off of your luckless hero. I quietly absorbed my lashing as I plotted my revenge. Just because I always won attendance prizes for Sunday school doesn’t mean I learned anything. Turning the other cheek may have worked for Jesus but he hadn’t been married for twenty seven years.
My chance for revenge would come after we picked up our car in Goeme.

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Last Night in Istanbul

Six young Iranians were also lined up to board the boat for our cruise of the Bosphorus Strait. They were speaking a strange language, but we didn’t think that young twenty-something Turkish males would be lined up for a two-hour cruise in their home city.
“Where are you from ?” Brenda asked them. A lot of the fun of travelling is the people you meet. Doesn’t everyone in the world speak English ?

Their English was limited; not so their generosity. One of them handed us a bill worth 10 000 Iranian rial. We smiled, but handed back their gift. “We can’t accept this,” Brenda replied. She’s more outgoing than I am and doesn’t mind the pantomiming, the gesturing and the inevitable misunderstanding that goes with trying to communicate in the Tower of Babel. Despite the number of countries I have visited, if they are not a fan of the Montreal Canadiens I soon get bored with the conversation.
He shrugged, and smiled. “Won’t go back,” is what we understood him to say. He and his five friends had left Iran under the pretence of going on holiday and their plan was to make their way to London and see where they could move on to from there. Their sense of adventure was not as limited as their English. I’ve often thought about this encounter since returning to Canada. I still have the 10 000 Iranian rial note on my dresser. I am mercenary enough to look up its worth. Maybe I could use it to make a downpayment on a cottage or something. I found out I could….if I was playing Monopoly. The bill was worth almost twelve and a half cents Canadian.

Our last night in Istanbul was spent in Taksin Square. I walked in the middle of the cobblestoned street, my eyes straight ahead, hoping that my gaze would not accidently glance towards any lounging carpet salesman. Patting myself on the back as I made my escape I was soon tracked down by a couple of tiny gypsy girls who made off with most of my baklava. Like taking candy off a baby.
“Alright, that’s it,” I exclaimed in frustration to my wife and daughter. I blew my breath out heavily as I said this, as my father always did when he was fed up with all the bullshit. It always scared the hell out of me. I guess that I didn’t inherit the proper gene… even our pet dog Jasper, as timid a soul as exists in the universe, is not intimidated in the least by my theatrics. “We have a flight to catch tomorrow.” I wanted to show that I knew at least a little of our itinerary, even if I had contributed nothing at all to the planning. “What’s the name of that place where we pick up our rental car ?”
“Goeme”, Brenda answered, as she looked around. I recognized the lost look in her eye; it was my usual condition.
“We’re lost, aren’t we?” Not being able to finish off my baklava, the tastiest one ever, had darkened my mood.
“Not lost … just off track,” was my wife’s rebuttal.
We were in a Muslim country, so I had to guess that Allah was sitting in for God when he led four young Muslim men directly into our path. They were just heeding the minaret’s call to prayer and were on their way to the mosque, which coincidentally was on the way to our hotel. As we climbed another of the steep streets that abound in this ancient city we came across a dance of the Whirling Dervishes, performing for the crowds that were out celebrating the nightly breaking of the fast during Ramadan.
Tomorrow I would be driving the unfamiliar roads of Turkey, but once again my thoughts returned to my stomach. If everyone was breaking their fast, maybe I would be able to find another baklava stand that was open for business before turning in for the night ?

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Eye- Sights in Istanbul

The Grand Bazaar was very modern, attractive and organized.
“Hello, sir. I have very fine belts. I give you good deal as senior citizen.”
The pitch line was good for a laugh, if not for a sale of a fine belt. It was still early in the morning. The Bazaar was just a first stop up the steep, cobble-stoned pedestrian-only street from our hotel, and my short fingers were not yet able to dig into deep pockets. The delicious, all-you-can-eat breakfasts that were served up every morning always put me in a fine mood. Meditteranean cuisine is exquisite and very healthy. Pancakes and fried eggs are nowhere to be found and I always return to Canada several pounds lighter, ready to tuck back into burgers, fries and blueberry pie, until my girth has returned to normal.
The Ayasofya was the morning’s destination if you were speaking Turkish, or the Hagia Sophia if you knew Greek. Your intrepid tourist knows neither, not a word. Picking up French was easy, having had a French-speaking father and growing up in Montreal. I was so much younger then. I made a concerted effort to learn Spanish before leaving for Peru and Bolivia and later walking the Camino in Spain. Well, a concerted effort means I took two night courses through the Ottawa-Carleton Board of Education. I received a certificate, but so does everyone else, even if they miss most of the classes. I attended most of the classes, but never studied. At the end of the second course I could successfully order beer and ask for directions out of whatever locale in which I presently found myself to be lost. That’s it. Which is considerably better than how I mastered Turkish. By the end of three weeks I could express myself in exactly one word, and I soon even gave up on that. No one could make out what I was trying to say.
However, Brenda and Rachelle heard me as I was hauled out of the line to enter the Ayasofya, targeted as a terrorist. The only grim-faced Turk that I encountered throughout our stay had identified me as a security risk and insisted that I reveal the contents of a backpack sure to contain explosives.
“For crying out loud,” I protested, a little too loudly for my wife and daughter’s liking, as I was escorted back to the end of the line, eyed suspiciously by the mostly Turkish tourists who were happy that their security agent was on the job and apprehending blue-eyed terrorists. I decided to let my displeasure be fully heard, even if no one could understand me. “Jesus didn’t tell me to blow up this mosque,” I proclaimed, “and neither did George Bush.” I knew that was a little out there, but I was feeling a lot of self-righteous anger. It’s one of my many weaknesses, I am told.

I soon rejoined my wife and daughter, even if they were doing their best to avoid me. We even signed up with a tour guide who explained the mix of Christian and Muslim icons. “Next stop, the Topkapi Palace,” Brenda announce upon exiting. First, however, she wanted to figure out the Istanbul transportation system. “How the hell are we going to do that ?” It was getting hot and the pleasant effects of breakfast were beginning to wear off. Brenda has no trouble ignoring me. She hurried off to where a machine was distributing tram tickets. A few minutes later she returned with a young, friendly-looking man. My Spidey-senses immediately started tingling. This guy must be selling us something.
“This is Mehmet,” said my wife. “He’s going to show us how to use the transportation system. But first he’ll take us to a good restaurant.” You have to give the devil her due, I reflected. After twenty seven years she knows how to quiet me down.

The restaurant was excellent, off the beaten path and with Turkish, not tourist prices. Yes, his family was in the carpet business and that is how he continually improved his English. He grew testy only when the subject of politics was raised. “Yes, there were Canadians in Iraq,” he countered, when informed of our country’s purity. But buying a carpet was not a political encounter. “No pressure,” he promised. Yes, I thought. What was that story I read as a youngster, the one where the fox was able to convince the farmer that his chicken coop would be safely guarded by the fox that night ?

The carpet shop was a prosperous- looking outfit, I noted upon entering. Prices would probably reflect the upkeep. We were introduced to Mehmet’s uncle, the owner and chief pitchman. First came the Turkish tea. That’s too soften us up, I reflected. How could you refuse a $1000 Turkish carpet after being served $1.00 worth of tea all afternoon ? As Mehmet’s uncle explained the great value of each new rug, the shop’s assistants threw one carpet after another onto the floor until the place looked as untidy as my daughter Rachelle’s bedroom floor after an afternoon of shopping at the discount clothing establishments that she favoured. The prices were also being thrown out there…. 2700…1200…1950 Turkish lira, delivery included. (Two Turkish lira to the Canadian dollar.) Brenda is a savvy, experienced negotiator, and your correspondent is not as stupid as he looks. Our opening bid on one gorgeous floorcovering was a third of his asking price. He chuckled and said that the world of the Middle East was no different than anywhere else; young people could not be persuaded to take up the old crafts after being introduced to the wonders of new technology and the supply of such handiworks was becoming scarce. Turkish coffee was ordered in to speed up the process, as Monsieur Le Carpet was realizing that these two naïve -looking Canadians were keeping a firm hand on their purse strings. Our last offer left the man chuckling.
“You know, we have a tradition in the Middle- Eastern countries,” he began. “It’s called circumcision. You remind me of a doctor who promised only a circumcision, but left his young patient with only…” well, let’s not go there. We all had a chuckle, but out of the corner of my eye I noticed poor Mehmet looking slightly downcast, his afternoon’s commission having gone for nought. “My final price for that carpet…1500 Turkish lira,” the uncle offered. By now we were on the sidewalk, only a dash away from freedom. “We’ll be back on Thursday,” we promised.
The two Turks smiled resignedly. We did mean it… really. But the salesmen probably saw it differently.
Honour among thieves.

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Magic Carpet Rides

Even if the Turkish sun is hot, my trusty Tilley hat should do the trick, even if it’s old and battered, like its owner. Looking in the mirror, I pretended I was on camera, and gave myself a wink.
“Straighten your hat,” Brenda advised me. “You look like Jed Clampett.”

Istanbul must not have much of a welfare system, because everyone that you inadvertently make eye contact with is on the hustle like a Turkish Sammy Glick. They are certainly a likeable bunch, however. After putting our shoes back on and stepping outside the Blue Mosque, we realized that we had lost our bearings. Our confused predicament was picked up on by a personable young passerby, who we took to be a local guide. After pointing out the quickest route to the Basilica Cistern, he ‘fessed up to his personal sin. “I’m a carpet salesman,” he stated without embarrassment, not knowing that I would have felt more at ease if he had admitted he was a serial killer. I grabbed Rachelle’s arm and started scuttling off in what I hoped was the direction of the Cistern. The poor guy didn’t realize that he might as well have told me that he specialized in selling Florida swampland.

Ah, carpet salesmen. My first encounter with the beast was in 1996, when we spent a year teaching in France. Brenda thought that our February break would be best spent by driving through Spain, leaving our car in Gibraltar and taking the ferry into Morocco. It was our first foray into a developing country and it opened my eyes as to what people, especially children, could learn when they possessed the intrinsic motivation. Little boys standing no higher than your waist were pushing in front of each other in order to be your guide, each one hustling for your business in English, French, German; all of which they could speak fluently as well as their native Arabic. After days of resistance we finally succumbed to the salespitch of one establishment, whose proprietor charmingly told us that we had been such sharp negotiators that he would be forced to make up his losses on our deal from the next rich Swiss businessman who stumbled into his shop. To celebrate the deal we all sat cross-legged on the carpet and a large bowl of couscous was brought out. Excusing myself to wash my hands I descended the rickety staircase into the basement where the only facilities were an ancient Turkish toilet and no sign of any running water. I returned upstairs to find everyone digging into the bowl with their right hand. I’m not squeamish by any means, but I can’t say that I dug into that particular bowl of couscous with too much appetite.

The Basilica Cistern was cool in every sense of the term. The ancients’ sense of architecture and engineering never fails to awe me, even if the primary architect seemed to have a fetish for Medusa heads. We weren’t turned to stone, but we were conned into the very modern practice of having our photos taken in mid-thirteenth century sultan-like garb, even if I don’t particularly want to show those photos to anyone.

Last stop in the late afternoon was the Grand Bazaar. I was exhausted from a hot day spent sightseeing after an all- night flight with no sleep. I had run an eight hour gauntlet of vendors, hucksters and con-men and I was now content to throw my wife and daughter to the wolves by themselves; they seemed more immune and better equipped to deal with the hurly-burly of the marketplace than I did anyway. By now I felt as skittish and nervous around vendors as an old carthorse making a delivery to the glue factory. I waved them off, bid them good luck and plunked my weary derriere on a bench outside the bazaar where I promptly fell asleep and probably started snoring.

I came to a little while later and found a young woman seated beside me, texting. She must have noted that I didn’t look Turkish because she spoke to me in English. “You are very tired,” she said, smiling.
I wasn’t sure what was up because I was more used to being conned by men and not women. “I was on an overnight flight,” I said in response, as naïve as if I had just rode into town on a load of watermelons. She smiled, pleased to have stumbled across a pigeon ready to be plucked, and continued to text.
“What’s the name of your hotel ?” she inquired.
By now even I was beginning to catch on and with my usual sharp repartee answered, “Well, I,uh,hmm… don’t know,” was the best I could do. I wasn’t playing dumb; I truly didn’t know. I was squirming in my seat when I saw Brenda and Rachelle approaching from the bazaar. So did the uh, young lady, as she speedily rose and hurried off without so much as a fare-thee-well.
“You should have come into the Bazaar,” both Rachelle and Brenda exclaimed at the same time.
It had been a long day. “I’m hungry,” I answered, “and the only thing I want to haggle over now is supper.”

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On the Road Again

We were given the last two seats on the Air Canada flight; backing right on the restrooms.
“It smells like an outhouse back here,” Brenda remarked. Normally such an odour would bother her, but she was heading out for a five week international trip. With her single-minded intensity my wife is the equivalent of a Muslim extremist when it comes to travel. We were rolling through the Canadian Rockies seven years ago when we got the message at breakfast that a storm sewer on our street had backed up and our basement was flooded.
“I’ll get our return tickets’ date changed,” I said, jumping out of my chair. “No, no,” she retorted. “Finish your pancakes. Paul will take care of it.” Paul was our next door neighbour and Brenda saw no need to rush back when we were still scheduled for another two-and-a-half weeks and hadn’t even reached Yoho National Park as of yet.
The stewardess approached me with a large, very-full glass of red wine. (Oops – I mean flight attendant.) “We’re so sorry that we had to stick you back here… and your screen won’t be working either. So there’ll be no movies, but I hope you like red wine.” She looked at me and smiled. “You look like someone who does.” I didn’t know what that meant. “I’ll keep the wine flowing all flight.” Our daughter Rachelle had walked back to see us from her seat half the plane up. “I don’t like sitting by myself,” she exclaimed. Then she took in a deep breath. “But it stinks back here.” The flight attendant, however, had some good news. “Once we take off you won’t be smelling it anymore.”
She was as good as her word. The wine never stopped but the nauseous odour disappeared and the flight held no new surprises. But the first day after an overnight thirteen hour trip is never easy, especially with a fanatic as your travel planner. We collected our baggage and then Brenda said, “I’ll find out where we catch the subway and then the tram to our hotel.”
Despite a long night of red wine I was suddenly alert to the danger. “Jeezus Murphy,” I exclaimed, even though Rachelle doesn’t like me to use anything approaching profanity. “Why can’t we ever take a vacation like normal people ? We’re on a holiday- not a Crusade.” Two of our last three trips had been Christmas excursions to Cuba and I had grown used to the soft life. Brenda must have had almost as many libations as I because she was unexpectedly accommodating to my whining. “Okay- we’ll ask these taxi drivers.”
One of the points of ‘discussion’ in our marriage is our sometimes differing views on travel . I like it, at least I’ve always been told that it’s good for me, but I’m not a fanatic about it. My view is that we go for two weeks, three at the most, and we travel in a comfortable, accustomed manner like most sane people. Unfortunately, Brenda begs to differ. She would stay away for her whole ten week summer, which is what she used to do before she met me. And she would pay for this by pinching pennies as only a Scot with the maiden name Laird could do. (No offense intended.) I’ve seen her negotiating for a deal on bottled water with Buddhist monks in Burma. Luckily for me I’m writing this so I don’t have to include what she sees as my so-called weaknesses.
After approaching four different cabbies we had to submit to what the going rate to our hotel would be. It was a twenty five minute ride. He let us off at the bottom of a very steep cobble-stoned street. “Your hotel up there,” he pointed. “Cars not allowed.” It was a very hot morning and a very steep climb. My role on holidays is car driver and pack horse. We wouldn’t pick up our car for the first five days, so I hoisted the heaviest bags out of the trunk. “We can check in right away, but I don’t want anyone falling asleep on the beds,” my wife instructed. “We’ll be going out to see the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome, the Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar.” Rachelle looked over at me and rolled her eyes. I winked back at her. We’d have to stick together.

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